For those who remember pre-pandemic fashion with nostalgia, seeing Jeff Goldblum and nine other actors such as Kyle MacLachlan and Asa Butterfield walking the Prada runway instantly triggered a sweet memory: The brand’s iconic fall 2012 show that saw the likes of Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman and Adrien Brody parading to loud cheers.
At the time, the A-list cast sported severe tailoring evoking vintage military attire as the collection was a riff on powerful men and investigated how fashion can telegraph authority. Ten years later and with Raf Simons as co-creative director with Miuccia Prada, the fashion house’s object of exploration shifted to empowerment.
In addition to the changes that occurred in the past decade, the conversation between these two strong creative voices sparked a new take on “clothes that make people feel important,” as Prada put it – more pragmatic, quotidian and neatly pointing to the future rather than referencing the past.
The models ermerged from a futuristic tunnel before stepping into the Fondazione Prada’s Deposito venue, this season designed by architectural studio AMO to resemble a movie theater.
Striding with a decisive pace in front of the audience, these characters looked powerful in their combination of sartorial staples and workwear – both elevated and given equal importance and dignity.
“The collection celebrates the idea of working – in all different spheres and meanings,” Prada said. “It is a practical, everyday thing. But here, you are formally important. You are not casual. And through these clothes, we emphasize that everything a human being does is important. Every aspect of reality can be elegant and dignified,” she added.
Hence double-breasted coats and blazers were given a couture-like treatment with furry arm bands in tech mohair, charming hourglass silhouettes that enhanced shoulders’ proportions, and hidden buttons that heightened the polished effect.
These elements also informed utilitarian outerwear and the evolution of last season’s bomber jacket, here rendered in a longer version with a belt cinching the waist.
In the same spirit the designers upgraded lightweight overalls and workwear separates, crafting them from tech silk fabrics and sleek leather. They further put them in the spotlight through color, ranging from delicate pastel tones to bold hues of tangerine and canary yellow.
“They replace the traditional historical shirt/tie/bow tie and give a new energy and reality, a younger attitude also,” Simons asserted.
Cue young actors Thomas Brodie-Sangster, Louis Partridge, Ashton Sanders, Damson Idris, Tom Mercier, Jaden Michael and Filippo Scotti, wisely tapped to be included in this updated cast and model the duo’s latest spin on wardrobe classics.
It’s yet to be seen if men will return to offices covered in furry details, or mechanics will fix cars in Prada silk attire, but with these new faces – and Tom Holland as its latest advertising campaign’s star – the brand’s triangle logo looks set to further infiltrate the movie biz.
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