Lantern-shaped pastries and the Catholic tradition of the Passion’s Mysteries

At least 10 days before Easter, households gather to prepare “tsimbita tyropitakia” or “lanterns,” small cheese pastries. The filling is made with fresh, unsalted Tinos myzithra cheese, eggs, sugar, vanilla, and cinnamon. The quantities are generous, as the pastries will be sent to relatives across Greece and saved for the upcoming feasts of Saint George and Saint Mark. These sweets have become so popular that you can find them in all the island’s patisseries year-round.

On Holy Thursday, it’s worth attending the Crucifix’s Deposition at Megalochari and the imposing church of Panagia Rodariou in Xinara. On Good Friday, the medieval tradition of the Passion’s Mysteries takes place in the large Catholic churches. We recommend visiting Panagia Rodariou early on Good Friday to witness the full ceremony. Twenty-nine tools and objects—symbols of Christ’s suffering, painted on wood or cardboard (the “kandrakia“)—are successively raised by children in the center of the church. Simultaneously, rhyming quatrains in the vernacular language are chanted.

The Epitaphios of Saint Nicholas that enters the water

The evening procession of the Epitaphios in the villages is more solemn, while in the city, it’s more impressive. There, the Epitaphios of the four parishes and Panagia meet on the marble platform in the pedestrian street of the old harbor for a joint prayer. As you will notice, the Epitaphios of Megalochari is modestly adorned, as is the one of Saint Nicholas of the city’s Catholic church. The very structure of the Epitaphios is so intricately decorated that only a few additional flowers are needed.

After this ceremony, the Epitaphios of Saint Nicholas heads towards the nearby Kalami harbor. Follow it to see the priest, chanters, and the Epitaphios itself entering the sea, while crosses are lit on the opposite rocky islet, and boats whistle to pay their respects. This particular ritual, which has gained fame for its spectacular nature, was established in the early 2000s following the deaths of two Tinians in a shipwreck of an overseas vessel.

The procession of the Epitaphios in the village of Pyrgos is also impressive, where women sprinkle it with fragrant oil from balconies or windows—a custom observed in all villages. After the conclusion of the Good Friday service, women, men, and children begin holding lanterns to light the candles in the chapels.

Easter Sunday with Festivities

As we mentioned, on this day, if you do not eat at a restaurant, you can take part in one of the small festivals organized at the chapels. On the afternoon of Easter Sunday, the Vespers of Love takes place, and as described by folklorist and ethnologist Alekos Florakis, the Resurrection icon is paraded through the streets on a pole, surrounded by a wreath of flowers. At that time, there is intense competition between nearby villages as to who will fire the most “trimbonies” (loud gunshots).

Discover numerous attractions in a single journey

While exploring Tinos during the delightful spring days, you’ll witness the island at its finest. One of the most picturesque routes is the one leading from the Main Town to Pyrgos, meandering through various charming villages. This route, essentially the island’s backbone, concludes in the northwest at the so-called Exo Meria.

Starting from the town on Alavanou Street, follow the signs towards Pyrgos. At 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) in, take a brief detour to visit Ktikados, a stunning Tinian village known for its remarkable architecture and panoramic views of the sea and Kionia. Admire the quaint, cobbled alleys, arched houses with marble skylights, and fountains, as well as the Catholic Church of the Holy Cross and the Orthodox Church of Hypapanti or Megalomata. Just a kilometer away is Hatzirados, a smaller village that shares the same enchanting atmosphere.

Return to the main road and continue to Campos, where you’ll find the Russian Orthodox Church of Saint Catherine, dating back to 1771. Stop at Tarabados to explore the old pigeon houses adorned with intricate stone carvings. Another must-see Tinian village is Kardiani, which is beautifully built on the slopes of Mount Pateles and surrounded by lush greenery, offering stunning views of the sea.

As you stroll through Kardiani, you’ll come across marvelous houses, marble fountains, vaulted arcades, and several Catholic and Orthodox churches. If you linger in Kardiani until the evening, you can enjoy one of the most breathtaking sunsets while sitting with locals in the central square, featuring a distinctive fountain with sculpted frogs.

Next, make a stop at Ysternia, an traditional Cycladic village famous for its marble sculptors. Boasting masterful architecture and an abundance of marble, Ysternia is truly captivating. Visit the Byzantine-style Church of Agia Paraskevi, which offers a magnificent view of the sea and Ysternia Bay from its marble courtyard. The bay is also a haven for food lovers, as it hosts the renowned Thalassaki restaurant.

Continuing along the main road, pass by the old windmills of Ysternia and head towards Exo Meria, with Pyrgos as your final destination. Although it may be crowded, don’t miss the opportunity to relax in Pyrgos’ famous square, complete with a marble fountain, cafes, and restaurants, all huddled under the shade of a colossal plane tree.

Pyrgos, the largest settlement in Tinos after the main town, stands as a prime example of Cycladic architecture and serves as an open-air museum of folk art. Stroll through its narrow alleys and visit the churches of Agios Nikolaos and Agios Dimitrios. Each neighborhood features houses with flower-filled courtyards, with idiosyncratic architectural elements, such as lintels, window frames, and relief decorations, all intricately crafted from marble, as are the skillfully designed village fountains. Don’t miss the exceptional Pyrgos Marble Craft Museum, the Tinos Artists Museum, and the nearby house of Giannoulis Halepas, a historic monument.

Situated 3.5 kilometers from Pyrgos, Panormos is small port of Tinos. The scene encapsulates the island’s essence: moored fishing boats, seaside taverns, cafes, restaurants, traditional Cycladic houses, and an array of rental accommodations. The landscape’s uniqueness is further enhanced by the islet of Planitis, featuring a lighthouse first illuminated in 1886, marking the distinctive northern port of Tinos.

Our gratitude goes to priest Markos Foskolos, General Vicar of the Catholic Archdiocese of Naxos-Tinos-Andros-Mykonos, for providing valuable information.

The customs mentioned are sourced from the book “Once Upon a Time in Tinos – Palimpsest Folklore” by folklorist and ethnologist Alekos Florakis.